Monday, August 3, 2009

The muslin

Well for those of you who like your sewing in detail, here's the work that's gone on behind this muslin. If you've just joined this sewalong, let me fill you in on 2 key details - I am sewing a 1970 "chanel type" Simplicity jacket pattern using an old unworn (Armani) jacket of my husband's which I unpicked.

I traced out my unpicked Armani pieces onto calico (muslin) marking the original lines, grain lines, pockets, button holes as well as the pocket linings so that I could see where I would need to cut, and where I couldn't cut. 

I did a tissue fit, I wasn't sure what to expect as this is a 1970 pattern which uses a smaller sloper than today, and it is a 16 which is a size bigger than my usual starting point. The tissue fit suggested my usual enormous FBA but also a slight hip decrease.

I then altered my tissue pieces - the back princess seams I joined together because my fabric pieces have a centre back seam and I have to keep to that. The front I joined together because of the welt pocket that would run in the middle. I decided to replace the princess seams with a princess dart - joined at the bottom up to the welt pocket, then sewn together in 2 pieces like a french dart thereafter.

I then laid out the tissue pieces on top of my calico and cut within the seam lines. I was even able to sneak in a collar in the back piece! Nice to have the option.                                                                       

There is a small shortfall between the original jacket and the tissue - men don't have boobs or butts, darn it!  I am hoping to sneak out the shortfall by using the inside facings, but I might have to revert to plan B, which is to use a black "racing stripe" under the arms.  


  1. Wow! I love seeing details. It amazes me when a sewer are able to do these alterations along with writing about it clearly! I might be able to do an alteration but to describe it in a clear matter is so hard! Thanks.

  2. Fitting pattern pieces on fabric from a refashioned garment without compromising the grainline is the challenge of the decade! It's like a puzzle. That builds character, or something. :) Your progress is impressive, and inspiring!

  3. Impressive. Looks great so far. I gotta get going........

  4. Thanks for the detail! That is a great idea to use the muslin to determine how to lay out the pattern. Good luck!