Tuesday, February 23, 2010

vogue 8259 three piece sleeve

Here are some pictures of the sleeve :

I absolutely love the result. The functional vent makes all the difference and gives the jacket a couture look. I do recommend this pattern.
Here are some close up views :
 The buttonholes were hand sewn with Gütterman silk buttonhole twist.
Apart from the quilting, the lining was completely hand sewn with beeswaxed thread following Claire Shaeffer's very detailed pattern instructions. I chose a contrasting fabric for the facing.

Yesterday I just had to pin the sleeve to the jacket and put it on to see what it looked like. Wow I loved what I saw in the mirror. This sleeve pattern is very well drafted and has a unique line indeed. I am so impatient to finish this project.
Hopefuly my next post on this blog will show a picture of me modelling the jacket.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Enthusiasm and my lack there of….

OK…I just haven’t been in the blogging mood as of late. So many other things on my mind and to do but today I am making myself sit down and write a few words about my Chanel jacket project. With a cup of coffee in hand and the Olympics on the TV please join me in my musing on my jacket.

Over the past several weeks I have acquired the pattern and resource materials to begin this project. Along with this I purchased the fabric and have now found the lining and thread that I want to use to quilt the jacket with. I am going to think outside the box and add my own spin on my jacket. I found the perfect amber colored lining to go with the boucle that I had purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics and while cruising around Joann’s the other day I came across this great variegated quilting thread that I thought would look great against the lining color and add my own flair to the project by tying the colors of the boucle on the outside of the jacket to the inside lining of the jacket. Here are a few photos of the choices I made for the fabric, lining and thread.

I’ve also traced my pattern off and adjusted it for my measurements. Being 5’10” I have of course added 2” of length to the sleeves and shortened the body by one inch. I also adjusted for my bust, waist and hips. It took me a great deal of time adjusting the pattern. To accomplish this task I used “Pattern Fitting with Confidence” by Nancy Zieman. I have never used her pivot and slide method so thought I’d give it a try to see how it would work on me. Needless to say it took me a whole Saturday bent over my table making my tissue pattern and adjusting it. Here are a few pics.

On Sunday I took the opportunity to cut the new pattern out of my muslin. I’m using the Vogue 8369 jacket pattern which has princess seamed front and side front pieces along with back and side back pieces. The jacket has a two-piece vented sleeve. This pattern doesn't have a pocket option so I may add one to it. I'll play that one by ear and test it out first to see whether I would like it or not.l As I cut each piece out I took the time to mark a full vertical grainline and horizontal lines at the bust and waist along with the various required markings for the pattern with a Sharpie black marker. Here are a few photos of the unsewn muslin.
Front and Side Front Pieces

Center Back and Side Back Pieces

Two-Piece Vented Sleeves

This is where my enthusiasm waned because my plans for sewing this past week were interrupted by a visit from my DD and her boyfriend and this weekend we went north for the Winter Carnival in Saranac Lake and today…here I sit writing this post. I am hoping that after lunch I will gain enough momentum to get myself into the sewing room to begin constructing my muslin. Wish me luck for I am finding it extremely difficult to remove myself from the warmth of the fire!

For your enjoyment some Winter Carnival Ice Castle pics.

Instead of "Happy Trails..." I'll say "Happy Sewing to You...."

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Trim issues

Here are some updates concerning my jacket.
The first thing I want to talk about today concerns some issues I had with my trim.
I first purchased some trim  I found a tidbit too thin for a Chanel style jacket. After much research concerning Chanel trims I stumbled on Birgitte’s exceptional blog where she explains how to make your own trim.

In the picture above you can see from right to left how mine turned out. First, I made a continuous bias with the fabric I used for the shell. I stitched it in the middle with a very short stitch length (1.5mm) and eventually topped it with the purchased trim. I then fringed the bias strip and inconspicuously hand sew it on the finished CF edge. It is not a very fast process but I spent so many hours in this project so far that I have stopped focusing on time.
Yesterday, I went to town to purchase so more trim but to my great disarray, the shop where I bought it run out of stock.
I had to find an alternative. My mind is quite set up concerning where I want my trim. That is along all edges including the hem. When I went to bed last night, the situation seemed to be hopeless, I could not figure out an ersatz trim and I had already trimmed the pockets and one of the CF edge. But as we say here :”La nuit porte conseil”. When I woke up this morning I had found how to solve that trim issue. The neck and hem lines will be trimmed with the fringed bias only. So that all the edges I had first planned will be trimmed without using another color or motif which would have been too much indeed.

The next step will be to hand sew the weight chain. I must say I am putting great expectations on the chain to improve how the jacket wears though it is already great to wear as far as I can say. The last but not least step will be assembling the sleeves and setting them in. One question I am asking concerning the sleeve is Do I have to make sure that the weaved plaid pattern (small scale) in the sleeve cap area matches the bust. So far I’ve been very careful to match everything and I think it is worth the effort but when looking around I noticed that sleeves are not always matched with the sort of fabric I am using.

Please, tell me what is your own opinion?