Upon dissecting the mens blazer that I will be using for fabric, I discovered 4 holes in one of the inner sleeve panels. My guess is that they are cigarette burns.
Here's how I repaired the damaged "teeth":
Step #1 -
I was able to salvage some black interfacing from the sleeve cuff, it easily tore away from the fabric, so I wasn't sure that it would re-fuse upon ironing, but it did!
Step #2 -
I stitched back and forth over the holes with black thread to prevent fraying. (the 2 larger holes are pictured below)
Step #3 -
Lastly, I used a small tight zig-zag with cream thread to mimic the original pattern.
It's not perfect, but I couldn't afford to lose any portion of the fabric, and it shouldn't be noticeable from a distance.
As for my muslin, it's as far as I'm planning to take it:
I added darts to the chest, and then fixed the arm hole to compensate for the darts. I'm going to cut my panels longer than the pattern/muslin because I think the length is appropriate as it hits unhemmed.
The next step is the most challenging... figuring out how to cut all these panels out of the original jacket! The sleeves had an inner panel similar to the pattern so they will go smoothly, but the back is 2 panels vs the 3 panels of the pattern, and the front... oh don't get me started. There's a small breast pocket on the original jacket that is making me pull my hair out, but I figure it's all downhill after surviving this (she says with the blind optimism of someone at the beginning of the this project).
I'll be sewing this weekend... will you?