...and the pattern. Oh, the pattern!

When it was time to choose the pattern I recalled I had seen a Chanel style pattern on Burda Magazine 10/2009 - 128. I started working with it, making the alterations I usually need. I could not make it fit, no matter how I tried...  It was probably a wrong combination between the checked fabric, the diagonal dart and the amount of fabric I should have added to make my FBA.

Then Burda Magazine 02/2010 was published and pattern 108 simply called me from the pages of the magazine.

I tried altering again the pattern from the October 2009 issue with no success, then I finally decided to try with the pattern from the February 2010 issue. It worked at the first try!!!

My idea was to distort the fabric grain as little as possible, so I transformed the vertical dart into an armhole princess seam and moved the back darts into the side seams.
I wanted the front pieces to overlap to have buttons (the original pattern did not overlap), so I separated the facing piece from the front piece and added the necessary amount to get it.
The sleeves, finally, were too close fitting, so they needed to be enlarged.

A lot of work, but I had a pattern for my jacket!!!

Here follows my pattern modifications:

armhole princess seam + full bust adjustment:




Full arm adjustment:



It was time to play with the fabric, then!

FBA: This looks crazy. Will it work?

I've decided to try to use the Claire Schaeffer's Custom Couture Collection V8259 pattern. Like most others, I can't find my size in this pattern (14-16), so I have the larger size pattern (18-20-22). My plan is to draft my smaller size based on what I have. Plus, I get to do an FBA for the first time. My high bust is 35" and my full is 40" so this adjustment cannot be avoided
I used Erica B's instructions for doing an FBA on a shoulder princess seam. (Thanks for the instructions, Erica B. Sorry for squatting on your website all evening.)
Here's a photo of the front piece (with button band on the right side). As you can see the original pattern piece is on the left and my drafted pattern is on the right with changes for a smaller size and for FBA.



THIS LOOKS TOTALLY CRAZY. The original has a nearly straight line, but my drafted piece has an enormous open parenthesis.
How will this jacket go together with such a crazy looking front piece?
Should I try to draft this again in a different way?
Or is this ready to try on my practice fabric?
Do I need to modify the side front for FBA?

Thanks for your help!


visit me: daily ode of delaïdo