Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Rose - Jacket Muslin

Here comes Rose, the Caboose! I think that I am on the train, though. Hope so! .

After looking at numerous patterns, I decided to use KS 3258 for the first of many (I hope!!) chanel jackets. I am going to make view B with long sleeves. I am still debating about putting in a zipper but I don't think that it will enhance my design. I certainly don't need it for most of the Florida winter.
My muslin is a size S in the shoulder, neck, and armscyle area with a size M for the side seams. The only adjustment that I made was a 1/2" petite adjustment in the armscyle area.
I'm pleased with the fit for a first muslin. The adjustments that I think are needed are: raise the bust dart 1/4", add 1" to both sides of the front seam, and shorten the sleeves 1/2". I like the jacket length where it is so I will add a hem allowance.
The side looks pretty good to me and certainly the sleeves are the best fit I've ever done. I have toothpick arms so these narrow sleeves are wonderful for me. The sleeves went in easily although I wasn't real careful about adjusting the ease.
The back fits all right as far as I can tell.
Here are pictures with my hands on my hips. I think that is a way to check on ease. At least I know that I can move in the jacket. In the front view, I can see the horizontal lines on the left side so I know that they are straight. I marked the left pocket flap locations and will raise the top one a bit.
I've made the adjustments on the tissue and did a tissue fitting. That looks good. I am concerned that the front seams don't meet at the top and the bottom. They fit at first and then fall when I move. That was not a problem with the tissue fitting. I'm hoping that adding facings will take care of that.
I welcome any comments and suggestions that anyone has. I'm planning to do a second muslin to check my adjustments. I know the fit will never be perfect with my body but I want to get as close as possible.