Saturday, September 12, 2009

Muslin Opinions Welcome - Myrna

I finished sewing the sloper for my dress form yesterday and can see some issues that need to be corrected - like leveling the waist - however, I'm taking a workshop with Sandra Betzina and Ron Collins in April and will get expert help then. For now, I've drawn lines to indicate what has changed and am moving on to the New Look 6632 muslin for my Chanel jacket.

Here it is on the form sewn exactly as the pattern was designed without some of my standard changes (like moving the underarm forward an inch) just to see what the differences would be. I need to move it. The form is already making a difference to how well I can see what's going on. I'm so glad I bought it.

On the form, I thought definitely not long and these two pictures convinced me. Sorry for the bad photos. My son would rather be reading than snapping pictures of Mom. It's probably time to figure out the tripod and timer. How do you take pictures?

I should have included more of my body in these photos of the short version. It needs to be slightly longer. What do you think the position of the princess seam? Should it be closer to the bust point? At the hem, I've flattened the seam close to the body from waist to hem because it was winging forward in the long version.

The back hem looks level in this picture. In the side view you can see that it goes up. I always have this correction due to a high and wide hip. I'm going to add more ease through the back hips to compensate for the flattening in the front otherwise it's too snug especially for a jacket. I pinned the CB seam in tighter from the top to mid back. It curved out and I have a flat back.

And the side view...

I'm going to stitch these changes, add some ease to the back, and sew in the sleeve just to test that before altering the pattern and starting on the fashion fabric. Opinions are welcome. Thanks for your comments about the pattern. Edited later - I thought it was new in the winter catalogue but just checked the reviews at PR and it's not.

- Myrna

1 comment:

  1. I think it's looking great! What a great pattern - it's really going to look lovely once finished. I personally wouldn't move the princess seam - it's fine at the side there, and enables the front to drape nicely - the structural line of a seam near bust apex might affect how the fabric falls away and this is a significant feature of the design...