Friday, October 9, 2009


Never can remember whether Chanel has one "n" or two - oh well I'm sure you know what I mean.

I'm working on my jacket muslin, and the process is going very well. I'm planning on adding faux welt pocket flaps, but I'm undecided whether to use just two - I could use three or even four, but I want to make sure that I'm not over crowding it. The pocket flaps will have braided trim across them (I still have not purchased the trim yet) and I don't want them to make the jacket look junky.

Vouge 7975 has a two piece sleeve which I usually try to avoid. In addition to the two piece sleeve, I still have to contend with excess sleeve cap ease. I know that ease is a necessary thing, but I cannot stand the puckers that result from it. Several months ago my friend Lisa Howard had told me about using Armo-Rite (found in old ties) cut on the bias to ease sleeves in with the puckers. I tried it and obviously did not know what I was doing because it did not work. I noticed recently that Erica Bunker showed the same technique in a tutorial so I gave it another try. I used regular bias tape (ironed open) as a substitute to ease the sleeves in my jacket muslin.

This time it worked like a charm. So I owe a big "Thank You" to both Lisa and Erica because now I'll satisfied with my sleeves.

Today I'll search my limited source here in town for my trim, and if that fails I turn to the internet. It's time for me to get the show on the road and cut into my fashion fabric.


  1. Wow...I wish I could sew! I love Chanel too! Thanks for sharing. Lovely blog!

  2. Hmm, the method you describe with the bias interfacing I myself used for the first time when I did a Palmer/Pletsch tailoring workshop. I found it was also used inside the Armani jacket that I unpicked, but in that case it also doubled as a sleeve head support and was made of lambswool.

    Having tried both methods, I prefer to ease in the fabric with my fingertips. Learning to manage the ease with my hands has greatly improved my sleeve sewing capabilities!

    Anyway, I'm glad you've found something that you can make work.

  3. I ease in my sleeve caps by hand basting first. This technique has worked well for me with V7975. Usually one sleeve will fit perfectly on first try and the other I'll have to finesse a bit.