work in progress

I'm finally getting to this next project after finishing two lined jackets for the Patternreview Sept. contest. I'm still in the design process for the trim and the front panel style but that hasn't kept me from starting the actual work. I'm repeating the technique I did from Shannon Gifford's Stitch and Flip technique on PR. Her article in Threads #111

http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4614/line-and-underline-in-one-step

was the inspiration for me taking the class 4 years ago.

As for this jacket, here's my progress so far. The fabric is probably from Jomar in Philadelphia since it came in two small pieces, a tweed blend that I fused with lightweight knit interfacing from Fabric Mart. I'm using my TNT princess seam pattern, Simplicity 4698. I've cut out the back, back side and side and quilted these sections with Ambiance bemberg lining.

Now I have to decide on the trim and front panel design and closure. I'm heading out to CA next week with my husband to visit his 91 year old dad. We'll get to San Francisco so I'll pack a fabric piece and look at trims there before I make my final commitment. It's been great to have this group to keep me motivated, inspired and challenged.

I'VE GOT TO GO CHANNEL....

I'VE GOT TO GO CHANNEL....

OR GO HOME. I've done little else but introduce myself here, but I have been watching and reading all about the great thing you all have been doing. I finally got around to starting my jacket for the challenge. I'm a little over the start date of September 1st but better late than never... I cut my muslin yesterday and started putting it together this evening. Here's the pattern I finally choose from the ones I had on hand, my fabric and shocking pink lining.

This is my first fitting after making a few adjustments in the waist area of the jacket. I decreased the four princess seams 1/4inch in the waist area and I think I like the fit because the fronts are not supposed to overlap.


This is a picture of the neck/upper chest area of the jacket that indicates that there is too much overlap in this area. I think that I will increase the front princess seams from the shoulder to just below the bust a 1/2 inch on both sides to decrease the overlap in this area. Muslins do take extra time, but are well worth the effort.

I make notations on the muslin so I won't forget the adjustments I need to make. If these ideas work out, I'll transfer the reminders right on the paper pattern.

I've seen some great jackets produced since the challenge started. Believe me, I am picking up suggestions, ideas, and learning from you. I am trying my best to keep it simple with this jacket as I do have a habit of over complicating things. By the way I do plan on making a matching pencil skirt after the jacket is finished.

See you girls at the finish line...

FAYE

Fitting the Muslin

I made the muslin for my daughter’s jacket and did a fitting. I have a student who is learning to sew. She observed the fitting, making it part of the lecture. You can see from the picture the alterations I am making.

I am very proud of my student because she has no fear, she just dives in. We are using the trial and error method. She will make a garment in muslin in order to practice sewing techniques, interpreting the sewing instructions on the pattern guide sheet on her own. I then critique the pieces, demonstrating what she needs to do to make it better. She decided she will make a Chanel-style jacket for her first project and will be sewing along with me. As I said, she has no fear, and that’s a good thing. Here's her muslin. I will have her help me with my fitting next.

One morning ... one sleeve

I am beginning to understand why Chanel pieces are timeless! My sewing morning has produced this one, quilted sleeve! However, it is just lovely to slip on and I think will be worth the time spent. Hope I can match it with sleeve 2.

Chanel-style Jacket at Ann Taylor

Hello, everyone! I haven't been sewing my jacket yet, but I've been doing a lot of pondering about fabric, trims, etc. I stopped into Ann Taylor yesterday and discovered this cute Chanel knock-off. 260 smackers!

It did give me a lot of inspiration, though. I love the use of trims here: ruffled grosgrain over chiffon, and a big grosgrain rose with organza petals.

I also like the fit, with its slightly shrunken silhouette.

So that's it for me for now. More pondering and fabric swatching to come!

Part way there...

Hi everyone,

My jacket is making slow progress and I have now finished lining and quilting the jacket shell. I interfaced the entire jacket with Sheerweft since I could purchase it locally (thanks for all the suggestions). This worked well and the jacket seems to have kept its softness. Before quilting the lining I top-stitched both sides of each vertical seam to add strength to the loose fabric and help keep the seams lying flat inside the jacket.





I chose the bagged lining method suggested by Cheri Dowd in the Threads article, and attached the lining to the main jacket by stitching in the ditch along all vertical seams, then down the centre back and on either side of the centre front opening.





I was initially undecided about doing more quilting, mainly because I thought it may lead to disaster. However, I have a walking foot for my 201 Singer, purchased for this project, so I wanted to use it! Glad I did as the extra quilting seems to add shape to the jacket and (I think) it hangs better. Unfortunately I don't have before and after shots and perhaps the difference is too subtle to see in a photo (just a feel-good improvement).




The only hand sewing was the shoulder seams, back neck edge and a small section of the front neck edge. I had to snip the neck curves to turn under the seam and used fray check and many tiny hand stitches to help stabilise this (the loose weave seemed very fragile and I was pleased to have the interfacing). I sewed a line of top-stitching around the back neck as an added precaution, and when the trim is put this should provide a further layer of stitching, so I'm reasonably happy it will be ok. However, is there a better way to do the neck edge next time?

The cotton is a perfect match and the stitches seem to disappear inside the woven fabric and are not noticeable.

Now for the sleeves ...

Dummy question - how to hand sew a lining?

I'm just at the point of sewing the lining to the jacket and I'm trying to decide whether to do it by machine or by hand. Since the front zipper is already topstitched I though maybe I would sew the side seams by hand. So here's my question: how do I do this? What stitch should I use? Should I sew from the outside (with the edge of the lining folded over and pinned down) or from the inside?

Any advice appreciated!