Fabric choices

I am a little behind in my prep work for this jacket. I decided to do the classic Chanel style jacket. I am using V7975 . I am making the orange one in the center back row

I have not ordered my fabric yet. I have two options that I can't choose between. A yellow plaid boucle and a pink plaid boucle. You can see both of the options at my blog. Which do you think I should use?

I am planning on ordering the fabric next weekend from the Fashion Fabrics Club website. Does anyone know a good website I can get trim for it from?

Threads 121--Inside Secrets of a Chanel Jacket by Susan Khalje

I added the above article to the resource list in the sidebar. Both Claire Shaeffer and Susan Khalje have wonderful articles which describe the step by step Chanel-making process. The article in Threads #121 will be my number one "go-to" resource especially for quilting the lining and sewing the shell. Also, the article has a source guide for fabrics and trims. Along with a list of possible patterns.

Khalje talks about the Chanel-isms such as the chains for the hem and gives great suggestions like adding the trim to the pockets before sewing them to the shell.

And again, the step 1, step 2, etc. helps a newbie like me. Also, there are pictures for the visual learner!

Yesterday Dawn wrote a helpful post talking about another great article in the Threads' book, Great Sewn Clothes, by Claire Shaeffer. I recently acquired it "used" from Amazon. It is written in a very similar manner as the Threads 121 article. Claire Shaeffer, like Susan Khalje, has written a great "how-to" guide for making a Chanel inspired jacket. One thing which Shaeffer talks about in length is the trim. She, also, describes how to use the lining as a piping around the jacket. Another little touch that I just might add!

Are there any other articles, books, or DVDs which aren't listed in the sidebar that you feel should be added? Let us know.

Phew!

I'm so pleased with how these sleeves came out. I used fleece as a sleeve head support, which is the first time I've tried this technique and it really makes such a nice job.

I had to pull in the centre back and add darts to get enough shaping through the back. It creates some funny effects with the houndstooth.

I'm so glad I got to reuse the lining as well. I thought it was beautiful. Because I pinched the facings to make my side panels I had to buy some plain fabric to replace the original facings.

Well, I'm done.  I'm really pleased with the result.  Surprisingly so, there were times I would have given up on it except my husband was breathing down my neck, "don't make Georgio turn in his grave" "he's not dead yet" "oh well don't make Georgio spin in his rocking chair."   (This jacket was originally an 80's power Armani RTW jacket of my husband's that he never wore.)

This sew along means different things to different people. For some, it's the opportunity to create something of workmanship of the highest quality - the quilted lining, the 3 piece sleeve, the meticulous fit. For others, it's about creating timeless style - the patch pockets, the buttons, the tweed, the trim. For me it's more about sewing in the Chanel spirit. Taking a piece of menswear, and turning it into women's wear in a simple, fitted style. 

I learned a lot about refashioning, that's for sure. I have a deeper respect both for its ethos and the skill it takes to work with small pieces of precut fabric.  Most of the decisions I made for this jacket were predetermined by the original pocket and seam lines.  

I understood something about the proportions of the Chanel - style jacket. The pattern I chose works because the broad shoulder is balanced by the jacket finishing at the fullest part of the hip, and the waist pulled in through the princess seams. It creates the perfect hour glass. Because of the position of the original welt pockets I couldn't actually follow that, and it's a little disappointing. But this is refashioning, you have to work with what you've got.

I wish I could show you a picture of it on me that reflects the work that has gone into this jacket. But that would mean getting up, and glamming up early before my husband left for work. Fat chance, so it's down to the ol' soft focus camera in the mirror trick.   You get the gist. I am now going to sit back and enjoy reading all about your hard work .... in my warm and snuggly Chanel style jacket, of course.

From this:

To this:

I'm really not a sewist, but I will play one on this Sew Along

Hello Internet, I've taken the plunge by deciding to commit myself to this Chanel sew along.

I've been thinking about maybe, possibly, perhaps, someday making a Chanel-inspired jacket ever since I read that Threads article about the iconic garment nearly four years ago. However, I never actually thought I'd get around to planning and implementing such a lofty goal.

Here's my To Do list, based on Cindy's list from last month:

1. Buy a silk suiting fabric and a silk lining.

2. Figure out the style of jacket and decide on a pattern or a mix of patterns. I have almost decided on using Vogue 8259 with modifications for the neck and button band.

3. Read up on Chanel jacket making and on Chanel herself: books, articles, and blogs. For someone who hasn't sewn much, I have a ton of resources on hand, including several Threads magazines and Couture Sewing Techniques by Shaeffer.

4. Buy a walking foot. I will call my local Viking dealer tomorrow and inquire about it.

5. Buy a good muslin for jackets. I have no idea how to choose an appropriate muslin. Tomorrow I will be visiting Nashville, so I will stop by Textile Fabric for help. If you have suggestions, please leave me a comment.

6. Find a great looking trim and some awesome buttons. Once again, I'll need some coaching on this step.

7. Get a real dress form.

8. Figure out how to do an customised FBA for myself. Ugh, I need a lot of adjustments here and I've never been able to do it with great success.

I am not a greatly experienced sewist. My mother taught me to sew when I was a kid; she taught herself to sew as a teenager by reading Simplicity and McCalls patterns. I've never had any proper sewing classes or instructions and I don't know any experienced sewists in my area, so I will need your guidance and encouragement to help me along. I'm really just a knitter who likes to play with her sewing machine!

visit me: daily ode of delaïdo

Coco and Karl

Here are a few pictures from the book Chanel Collections and Creations. Photo 1 is from 1960 and photo 2 is from 2003. As beautiful as Lagerfeld's creations are I am admittedly partial to Mademoiselle's. She was all about functional design, elegant simplicity and rejected fashion that was restraining. I chose these 2 photos because I think they showcase the difference between Chanel today and Chanel, the original. The 60's version looks like I could just throw it on and run to the grocery store. Whereas, Lagerfeld's version would definitely be a little over the top for my local Wal Mart!

The center picture, a 2002 design, is my inspiration for this sew along. And yes, I know I just said I liked the vintage designs best but this jacket combines the best of both designers. It is more body conscious thanks to Lagerfeld and yet it has the understated elegance of Mademoiselle. (For the record, I'll be wearing something under my jacket.) Okay, enough of my editorial.

I'll just close with 2 quotes that I think best summarize the vision of the woman whose art still inspires us. " Nothing is more beautiful than freedom of the body" and "Luxury is not the opposite of poverty; it is the opposite of vulgarity."

Back in Town

Hello. This is Cindy, one of the three Admin on the Sew Along. Quickly, I wanted to post to say I am back from vacation. I have oodles of sew along emails and just wanted to let you know that I will be returning each one in the next few days, But.... if you don't hear from me...please, please just holler...I don't want anyone to be forgotten. I have been a bit scatter-brained with family chaos the last few weeks, but I am back all relaxed and ready to sew a Chanel jacket! And yes...100 smelly snail shells, 200 rocks, and roughly 300 pine cones came back with us from Northern Michigan!

Things I am Learning

I picked up a few books a while back at my second-hand bookstore. I was flipping through one yesterday morning while eating breakfast and imagine my surprise when I stumbled upon an article by Claire Shaeffer about Coco Chanel. I won't scan the entire article for copyright reasons but it has some very nice techniques, diagrams, and tips. It's an older Threads article compilation. I would certainly recommend pick it up if you see it.

Here's an example of one of the diagrams. As I go through this Sew Along I'll explain the techniques I use that are from this book. This article focuses on the iconic Chanel jacket.

I have already learned a few things I didn't know before.

• Most Chanel jackets have extremely narrow-cut shoulders and small, high armholes. This gives the wearer a lot of range of movement.
• There's usually a narrow side panel which gives the jacket some shape around the waist.
• There is usually a very fitted three piece sleeve.
• The jackets traditional have only two layers: the shell (fashion fabric) and a blouse-weight lining.
• The shell is machine-quilted to the lining. This provides support to the often loosely woven shell fabric. The quilt pattern should depend on your shell fabric design. Horizontal stripes would be quilted with horizontal stitches. A large plaid could be quilted with boxes etc.
• Trim is important to a Chanel jacket. Jacket edges, pockets, and sleeve vents are trimmed.
• This book mentions four main ways to trim the jacket: topstitched trim, grosgrain and plaited-yarn trims, selvage strip with narrow woven band, and piping which is an extension of the lining.

I am be no means an expert on the Chanel jacket. I've seen them but only because Claire Shaeffer was recently in Anchorage. I'm just sharing what I have learned because I figured there would be others out there who didn't really know what it means to sew a Chanel jacket.