Thursday, February 4, 2010

Trim issues

Here are some updates concerning my jacket.
The first thing I want to talk about today concerns some issues I had with my trim.
I first purchased some trim  I found a tidbit too thin for a Chanel style jacket. After much research concerning Chanel trims I stumbled on Birgitte’s exceptional blog where she explains how to make your own trim.

In the picture above you can see from right to left how mine turned out. First, I made a continuous bias with the fabric I used for the shell. I stitched it in the middle with a very short stitch length (1.5mm) and eventually topped it with the purchased trim. I then fringed the bias strip and inconspicuously hand sew it on the finished CF edge. It is not a very fast process but I spent so many hours in this project so far that I have stopped focusing on time.
Yesterday, I went to town to purchase so more trim but to my great disarray, the shop where I bought it run out of stock.
I had to find an alternative. My mind is quite set up concerning where I want my trim. That is along all edges including the hem. When I went to bed last night, the situation seemed to be hopeless, I could not figure out an ersatz trim and I had already trimmed the pockets and one of the CF edge. But as we say here :”La nuit porte conseil”. When I woke up this morning I had found how to solve that trim issue. The neck and hem lines will be trimmed with the fringed bias only. So that all the edges I had first planned will be trimmed without using another color or motif which would have been too much indeed.

The next step will be to hand sew the weight chain. I must say I am putting great expectations on the chain to improve how the jacket wears though it is already great to wear as far as I can say. The last but not least step will be assembling the sleeves and setting them in. One question I am asking concerning the sleeve is Do I have to make sure that the weaved plaid pattern (small scale) in the sleeve cap area matches the bust. So far I’ve been very careful to match everything and I think it is worth the effort but when looking around I noticed that sleeves are not always matched with the sort of fabric I am using.

Please, tell me what is your own opinion?


  1. Your jacket is turning out well. I just love your choice for lining too! The trim came out sweet and I think your option for the neckline and hem will work out nicely.

  2. Your jacket is coming along quite nicely. Regarding the matching the sleeve, the plaid in your fabric does not seem to be very prominent. I believe that Shirley Adams discussed this issue in one of the episodes of her show. She encouraged the viewer to match the plaid of sleeve and body at the armhole/underarm seam. This aligns the sleeve seam plaid with the body of the garment and the match should be very close going up the armhole seam.

  3. This is going to be a great looking jacket!

  4. Thanks Patsijean, you are right the plaid is non prominent but still I am going to follow your advice. As a non American resident I have never heard of Shirley Adams. I am going to do some research about her on the web. It realy is a pity that we don't have anything related to sewing on French tv

  5. This is looking really really good. The fabrics you have chosen are gorgeous. I think Patsijean's advice sounds like a great idea.

  6. What a beautiful jacket this will be. I love the bias-cut pocket and your trim choices. Oh, and the lining! Exquisite!

  7. This looks beautiful, and you discovered the same thing I did....unfinished just doing my do-diligence fittings, the jacket felt great. The chain is just that added "oumph" that will make the jacket just a smidge nicer.

    Even couture can't match the sleeve plaid - in their greatest dreams, doing all sorts of armscye and sleeve header designs, it's impossible to match. Do the best you can. The important thing is that your plaid is on the straight and the lengthwise and widthwise grains are parallel. And it looks like you have that problem mastered so I'd say you are OK.

    BTW your trim is fabulous...Karl Lagerfeld who designs for the House of Chanel today, has said that it is the hand made trim that shows the true couture nature of jacket.

  8. Thank you Claire for your nice and expert comment, I am very honoured

  9. I can't help wondering if Chanel quilted the skirts as well as the jackets. I would think that with a skirt in boucle there would be a risk of its getting a "seat" - stretching from being sat in. I can see what a difference quilting makes to the fit of the jacket. I'm still not skilled enough at sewing to be able to attempt a jacket. I love reading your blog.