Thursday, September 3, 2009

Jacket muslin

I've decided on the classic Vogue pattern 7975, view B (short length, long sleeves, no overlapping center front). So it's time to make a muslin.

I started with a size 14. On the pattern a final bust circumference of 105 cm is indicated, what I thought would be enough ease (8 cm). By size chart I would need 16, with a final measurement of 110 cm.

In the pictures the left side of the jacket (my left side) is the original size 14. I have taken space out of the upper half of the princess seam both in the front and in the back, because of too much space in the shoulder area and back. Think it should be a bit more, but the shoulder width seems ok now. I used a small shoulderpad, simply need that with my sloping shoulders.

What do you think? When I put the muslin on I thought it was OK, but seeing the pictures I'm thinking I should cut a size 12 for the upper part and do an FBA.

For time reasons I will not be sewing this one in the classic Chanel way. As I read in previous posts here that you need 100-200 hours for that I was discouraged to do that, as I want this one to be ready three weeks from now. Though I still can't see needing more than 100 hours when you machine quilt the pieces. But I might be mistaken in that, having no experience with this

(This fabric gets wrinkles when you only look at it!)


  1. I think you are right- you need a size 12 and an FBA. It took me forever to start doing this instead of just focusing on the circumference measurement but once I did I was very pleased with the results. Otherwise it looks very nice.

  2. I think I agree with Elizabeth. It seems a little big in upper chest.

  3. With the little bit I know, I'm in agreement with the other two ladies. The size 12 should eliminate a lot of your tweaking in the upper chest area. Love the way the jacket fits the contour of your hips - and that is meant as a compliment. I'm thinking of using that pattern also.

  4. The fit is wonderful at the waist and hips--very flattering. The upper chest would probably look better in a 12 with the FBA. Looks great!

  5. Yes-go with a 12. If you don't want to make numerous muslins .....I agree with previous posters.....the waist and hips look great. The chest is too big. Great color muslin!!!!!

  6. Yes, I have made this jacket a number of times and the size 12 is perfect for me. Snug, flattering fit. Interestingly, I am making a Vogue Oscar de la Renta jacket in a 14 now--the size 12 would be too tight.