When I arrived at class Thursday morning, I had my muslin constructed for my first fitting. I got lucky, and only had to alter my side front and side back pieces, so my 2nd muslin was the final version. It was constructed for the final fitting, then ripped apart to cut my fashion fabric. Each pattern piece was trimmed along the stitching line, removing the seam allowances, then pinned to my fashion fabric. Each piece was cut with at least a 1" seam allowance, then I tread-traced the stitching lines on every piece (11 of them) of the jacket. "Thread tracing" just means I used a running stitch to mark the stitching lines so I know where to sew when it's time to assemble the pieces together. The boucle was in my stash, I bought it a year ago from Haberman Fabrics in Royal Oak, Michigan. The lining is silk charmeuse and was purchased in NYC at Lace Star. Absolutely amazing store, filled with the most gorgeous laces and trims. Ann got her beaded lace there for her corset!
It took me about 6 hours to thread trace all the pieces (all of 1 class day). Cutting the lining was the next step, and thankfully, no thread tracing was involved! I just laid my fabric pieces on the lining, and cut, using the same large seam allowances. After 2 days of working on this without touching a machine, I was very excited to reach the quilting part! I used 2 different thread colors so the quilting stitches would blend in, a light mossy green on the boucle side, and a luscious deep purple for the silk side. These are stitched wrong sides together, using a walking foot.
Below you will see between the 2 layers, where each quilting line ends and the threads are pulled to the inside, knotted together, and trimmed.
It took me about 6 hours to thread trace all the pieces (all of 1 class day). Cutting the lining was the next step, and thankfully, no thread tracing was involved! I just laid my fabric pieces on the lining, and cut, using the same large seam allowances. After 2 days of working on this without touching a machine, I was very excited to reach the quilting part! I used 2 different thread colors so the quilting stitches would blend in, a light mossy green on the boucle side, and a luscious deep purple for the silk side. These are stitched wrong sides together, using a walking foot.Below you will see between the 2 layers, where each quilting line ends and the threads are pulled to the inside, knotted together, and trimmed.
Quilting lines begin 1" below the seam line, stop 2" above the hem, and are approx. 1" apart from each other. The hardest part was also staying 1" away from joining seam lines, since the next step (which I haven't gotten to yet) is the actual assembly of the jacket. When I stitch together joining pieces, I will machine stitch the fashion fabric (right sides together), but leave the lining on each pieces loose. After the body is assembled (no sleeves yet), I will hand-stitch the lining closed. Like I said, I'm not even close!
Interfacing? None. Shoulder pads? None. Why? Because, Susan said so. If I remember correctly, the idea is to have the jacket fit and drape like a cardigan, so little structure is necessary. I've ordered the Threads issue #121 to help me finish this baby without her direct supervision!
In a few months, when I'm done with the lining... I'll add these wonderful buttons and trim. I'm opting for 2 patch pockets and a more youthful look, so this beaded trim and sparkling buttons are perfect. If you're still shopping for trim and buttons, check out the M & J Trims website, and call for some swatches. I've never seen so many beautiful trims, laces, appliques, buttons, closures in my life! I know it's more narrow than the usual Chanel trims, but I really like the look of it and Susan said it would be fine all by itself. I have 1 last piece to quilt, then it's on to assembly. I'll check back in when the bodice is put together! Good luck to all of you!
I am so impressed! What a huge amount of work ... it's going to look amazing when you're finished.
ReplyDeleteBoy, oh boy does that thread tracing sound familiar. That boucle is fantastic!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful fabric. How wonderful to have been to that class. I'm quite envious.
ReplyDeleteHoly Cow - you've made great progress...I haven't even cut mine out and I'm going to be away from my studio for 3 weeks, then come back with customers down my back. I may not get mine finished till December. But love all your descriptions....how much fun to be doing this class with Kenneth and Susan.
ReplyDeleteLove your fabric choices....and thanks so much for such a detailed post! I hope to get a muslin going this weekend, not sure yet on fabric. I may wait for the Novi Sewing Expo to purchase...and I'm really JEALOUS of the sewing weekend you all had in NY!
ReplyDeleteLooks great Kristine....I recognize that lovely fabric. Maybe a couture nap is in order and then you can take off again!
ReplyDeleteIt looks amazing! This was a very helpful post. I keep re-reading the a "How to" article over and over to make sure I got it, but your post really puts it in perspective for me. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteReaders, the photos don't do her fabric and trims justice. I've seen it all in person and it's so lovely!
ReplyDeleteHello Kris, I am glad you're done with the quilting, and Lindsay T is soooo right, the photos don't do the fabric justice. I have also seen it in person and it beautifulllllll!
ReplyDeleteYour fabrics, trim and buttons are perfect together. I think Susan is a wonderful and gifted teacher and know you enjoyed your time with her and Kenneth. I can't wait to see the hat and want to know more about Fur & Furgery. I'll be in NYC in Nov and will have to check it out with my hat loving friend Kate.
ReplyDelete