I have made my final choice and as soon as it arrives in the mail I will post. I know I will have many questions along the way. I am going to do this pattern, View A, the couture method. Here's my first cry for help. I am v. petite, 5 feet tall, and have hips. I look at those sleeves, and they are beautiful, but I know that the buttoned vents loaded with trim will land right at my hips. I can see them adding bulk to me in an area where I don't need it. I adore 3/4 sleeves. Is there such a thing as a vented 3/4 three piece sleeve? I may go a straight 3/4 but if I can do the vent/buttons I would be happier. Has anyone done this? Thanks so much, and I will be posting as I go along. Great to see you here, Claire. Maybe we can egg each other on.......Bunny
Welcome Bunny. Your samples are impressive. And yes, I have seen a vented 3/4 sleeves and it is very attractive. Actually I am working on my sleeves and thinking about changing my 3/4 sleeve to just a vent. I like the simplicity.
ReplyDeleteHello Bunny, I got some samples today from the same place. Can't wait to see what you pick!
ReplyDeleteOh yea, what a nice set of well organized swatches!
ReplyDeleteAs for your arms ending at your hips - um, who in the world spends their life at attention? You'll be using those arms, and they'll be nearer your waist than your hips oftener than not, flashing gorgeous full length vented sleeves....with every move you make.... for the envy of all who see....
BTW, you have a misspelling in your blog's link, and that hijacks the click to a very strange non-sewing space!
Bunny, I am so delighted that you are taking part to this awesome sal. You are so inspirational
ReplyDeleteHere's the correct link to Bunny's blog
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
3/4 or almost were not rare with original Chanel jacket as you can see in my picasa album
http://picasaweb.google.com/manola76/DropBox#
Thanks for showing the correct link. Appreciate it Maricou. I did some research in google images and there are definiely runway jackets with 3/4 sleeves. They seem to have trim but no vents. I may go in that directions. I will mock up the muslin with buttons and see what happens. Thanks for the input.
ReplyDeleteBunny - Hey - you're going to have so much fun; create a jacket that you will adore wearing for ages (and yes, this will be something that your heirs want and will really treasure); and create something of incredible value! I know we all talk a lot about the cache of a Chanel jacket - but I think it's when you make one that you finally understand the true couture-ness (is that a word - well it is here) of them.
ReplyDeleteAnother thing I've been wondering (do you all do as much thinking while you're sewing - I guess I just don't turn off), was how in the world did Coco come up with this technique. It is a phenomenal technique by which she makes this flimsy, loosey-goosey, weave-y type fabric into a durable, comfortable, classic jacket....think about it...the creative process involved to create the technique is as much to be admired as the process itself.
Bunny, I love the pattern you're using- it's the classic pattern. And the first place to start is with a muslin. I know this is going to be boring, but when you start making up the jacket you're going to appreciate this step. Remember this is from the "I'm on the clock" gal, and always trying to save my clients more money by being time efficient. But this step can't be skipped....in addition the more you finish the muslin the better off you will be. I didn't do sleeve hems, and that has cost me a lot of time in finishing the jacket. So yes, finish the muslin off as much as you can.
As far as measurements and being as short as you are, there should be some "lengthen or shorten here" lines drawn horizontally on the pattern....use those...measure from waist to neck (front & back), and measure to about where you want the jacket to hem...and of course since you're doing a muslin you can adjust that as you do fittings.
And you know what - this is YOUR jacket - if you want 3/4 sleeves, do it. That's the absolute joy of doing your jacket (and of course the joy of not having to pay Karl Lagerfeld a cool $20,000 to do it!!!). I'm wondering here - and this is the artist talking - if you do 3/4 length, that the vent should be on that center outside seam....this is a trademark of the Chanel jacket, and this is where she puts the buttons/cuff detail, so I'm thinking that would be a nice technique to your vent where Chanel would have put the cuff detail.
The one thing I would keep in mind here is that this is a classic jacket, and like something classic, you want it to last forever. The way you talk, 3/4 is a classic look for you, so I say go for it.
Another thing is that you don't have to add trim everywhere. If you just want to have trim around the neck, pocket edges, sleeve cuffs, etc., then that's all you need. Maybe you might want to think about binding the edges with the lining fabric - you know so the lining fabric shows a little - like an accent - on the outside. And this would be your "trim" accent - the binding. That doesn't/won't take up that much more space on the outside and make it feel like you have 6 extra layers that you don't need in a spot you really would like to non-accentuate.
Hey, post some pics and let's see where you're going....I have the Italian wool pants client coming today - so after that will post some picks of how I finished the inside of the armhole. I'm such a stickler about that header on my sleeve head, that it took me about three tries to get it right, but it's looking fabulous now.
Whew! This turned out longer than I thought!
Thanks for the great responses! I am in the right place for this project, that's for sure!
ReplyDeleteLove your fabric swatches and it is great participating in this blog because you gain such helpful and valuable information. It is always nice to find out someone else's fabric supplier. I hadn't heard of Banksville Fabrics but Googled it and will be joining their fabric swatch club being as it sounds like they have a wide variety of fabrics. We are sadly lacking any quality fabric stores in Upstate NY so I purchase a lot of fabric online. Good Luck and looking forward to reading your posts.
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