Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Finished: Gold Chanel-Style Jacket for the Holidays

Glad this jacket is finally finished, and just in time to wear to holiday parties. I plan on wearing it most often with a white-and-navy striped French sailor's shirt and jeans. Here are the details (apologies for borrowing this from my Lindsay T Sews blog post):

  • Fabric: Metallic bouclé from Mood Fabrics in NYC that is gold on one side and silver on the other; you could ostensibly choose either or. Supposedly this fabric is from Ralph Lauren. Lining is sheer white silk organza and the Hong Kong seams are finished in silk charmeuse, also from Mood.
  • Trim: A blue braid with gold accents from M&J Trims. I really wanted to find a bolder trim but my teenage daughter was with me at M&J and she has all the patience there of an antsy two-year-old strapped in a stroller.

  • Pattern: I guess I'd have to say this is my own basic design. It started out a few years ago as Textile Studios' Mandarin Collar Jacket pattern, but I've altered it so much it really doesn't resemble the original pattern any more. I wanted this design to be very basic and not very fitted, hence no darts or princess seams.

I added lined flap pockets (decorative only) that are topped with piping in silk charmeuse. The most time-consuming part of this jacket was hand-sewing the trim in place.

Here's a close-up of the fabric so you can see it has a split personality: Is it a gold bouclé, or is it silver? I loved the gold side a little more, but I didn't want to hide that fabulous silver beneath a lining. So I decided to use sheer silk organza as a lining because it let the silver peek through.

I treated the bouclé and the organza as one layer, first hand-basting the two fabrics together before any machine sewing to prevent shifting. I Hong Kong-finished all the seams with strips of silk charmeuse and then I catchstitched the seams in place to the organza. The outer edges of the jacket and sleeve hems were bias bound: I stitched the bias strips of charmeuse to the wrong side, then flipped the strips over and stitched in the ditch to tack them down. The raw edges of the bias strip were then covered up by the trim, which I hand-sewed in place.

I got the idea to treat the interior of this jacket this way from a gorgeous Prada jacket I fondled at Saks Fifth Avenue. The lining and the fashion fabric of this jacket were treated as one unit, and the seams were all Hong Kong-finished. The inside was as beautiful as the outside. Now if a jacket was going to be worn a lot I wouldn't necessarily recommend silk organza as a lining–it's just too weak a fabric, even when treated like a layer, to withstand a lot of exposed wear. But for a jacket like this one, which won't get worn a lot, it's fine.


  1. That is truly a beautiful garment - I love the taupe silk with the blue trim, and the silk organza on the inside. Is silk organza really weak? I've heard it referred to both ways, how would it compare to, say, another silk or rayon lining?
    Lindsay, you're just teasing us with this flat garment image, right? You WILL post a pic of yourself in it...????

  2. LOL, I was just thinking of this this Morning! Truly. Happy to see it finished. As Digs said, lets see a pic of you modeling.
    It's fabulous, and I love what you did to be able to see both sides. The fabric is gone now from EmmaOneSocks site so now I can breathe without having to order it. sigh, I love it.

  3. It's lovely jacket. I love this bias strip.

  4. Digs, I guess "weak" is the wrong word to describe silk organza because it can be pretty hardy. I mean, we use it as an underlining to toughen other fabrics up, right? I just think as an exposed lining it might show wear and tear sooner than a silk or rayon.

  5. Gorgeous fabric - I love what you did on the inside with the HK finish and organza underlining. Simply beautiful. I hope you go round flashing the insides at people.

  6. It turned out lovely!

    "my teenage daughter was with me at M&J and she has all the patience there of an antsy two-year-old strapped in a stroller."

    I chuckled at this reference...by daughter is 21 and can be a pill at times in the fabric store too...unless that is...you are sewing a garment for her! ;-)