A question about pattern size terminology 'BB'

Edited 2009-10-18 to include photo of 'BB' reference

Hi, I needed to purchase extra silk charmeuse for the bias finish on the jacket armscye and decided to "Go Chanel" so I now have enough silk for a sleeveless blouse with flounce (to match the jacket lining) and (hopefully) a skirt lining as well - very exciting! The pattern I've chosen is Butterick 5284 view B without the sleeves (or with short sleeves) and possibly without the collar. I'm doing a muslin first and when checking the pattern size/fit I noticed it has the notation BB (8-10-12-14). This has intrigued me. Does anyone know what the "BB" means? I've googled it unsuccessfully and can't find it explained on the pattern cover, pattern glossary or instructions. Thanks.

A tale of two (or more) trims

Hi, I've been enjoying the whole Chanel experience. Its been such great fun getting back into sewing again. While looking for the 'perfect' trim I've explored further afield and visited some places I'd heard about but not been to. Saigon fabrics for the silk lining and yesterday EM Greenfield ... and I think I may have found it!

My two early endeavours produced the pale mauve trim, a great match colour-wise, but somewhat insignificant and the purple braid.



The purple gave good contrast, but the style of braid was not what I was after. Encouraged by feedback and ideas from my earlier post, I tried a crochet edge (which didn't work) ...



... then a crotchet chain sewn to the reverse side of the trim, which looked surprisingly ok and was a possible fall back ...



In search of the 'pop' factor, I also tried a contrasting backing ribbon with the pale braid, which looked effective but the combination of trims proved too difficult to curve around the neck edge. It was also too weighty/bulky for the jacket.



So I've been on the hunt for something like the mauve trim but in purple, and yesterday I found it. It looks good on its own ...



... although if I have enough selvage available I'd like to add a fringed edge to tie it back in to the woolly jacket ...



Now I have a question! Do I need to pre-treat the trim, perhaps soak it in a gentle wool wash?

Coco is catchy

Hello everyone. As one of the admin of this sew along, you would think my jacket would be near completion. Well, it looks as if I will be the first to admit that an extension to a Nov. 15th deadline will be needed. I have done all my research, bought all my supplies, and even completed my muslin, but my mind has not been clear enough to begin the project. I have several volunteer projects in the works and by next Monday, I have set aside time to just work on the jacket. It is getting cold in Chicago so I am looking forward to wearing it!

I have enjoyed all your posts and inspired by every thing I have seen! Thank you for sharing and hopefully next week I will be able to offer some payback.

I had to add the above pic because my daughter chose Coco Chanel as her biography book report for October. Like mother, like daughter...I guess. We decided to read it together especially since the author keeps on referring to past lovers!

Be back soon!

Vouge 7975

The sleeves are now basted in, awaiting feedback from my "in-house fitting consultant". However, I'm reasonably happy with the way they are sitting, just needing a final check of the back.




As promised, here are a few of the construction pics showing how the lining is attached. More pics are shown in previous posts for the jacket body and sleeve.

I eliminated all facings and cut a full lining, then bagged and quilted the jacket body. I also used a lightweight fusible interfacing called Sheerweft to stabilise the fabric. For the 2-piece sleeves I sewed the elbow seam (with ease) then quilted the lining and fabric while flat, then hand stitched the remaining lining seam (after machine stitching the fabric seam). I plan to trim and finish the armhole with a bias strip.

CONFUSING MYSELF...

The more I think about my Chanelish jacket - the more I confuse myself. I notice that lots of people are making the Vouge 7975 pattern and so am I. I have several questions about this pattern:

. Due to time constraints I have decided to follow the instructions from Threads issue 128, where the lining is bagged and then quilting it. The Vouge pattern has front and back facings, CAN THE FACINGS BE ELIMINATED TO FACILITATE ME BAGGING THE LINING?
AND, IF I ELIMINATE THE FACINGS WILL MY JACKET BE COMPROMISED IN ANY WAY?

I am looking for a soft carnigan style jacket, so maybe eliminating the facings won't matter, but I'm unsure.

I am not fusing my fashion fabric for this jacket, mainly because I had a bad experience with fusing earlier this year.

I NEED TO KNOW WHAT OTHERS ARE DOING WITH THIS PATTERN????

Dawn - It's coming along

I have not given up but my life has been buuuuusy with fall.

I decided to go with hook and eyes instead of a zipper. With all the colors in the boucle and trim, I didn't want another color for the zipper. I thought about black but didn't want a dark line cutting my jacket in half. This, I think, is better.

It has sleeves.

Here's the finished trim on the sleeves. The trim is applied with the sewing machine in two passes.

First I zigzagged on the gold using a matching thread. This is my test strip. I ended up using a narrower zigzag.

Then I used a straight stitch to apply the blue trim. You can see the manufacturer used a straight stitch to create the loops (look closely at the blue thread). My test version is with gold but look at the photo above of the finished sleeve and you can barely see the stitches.

This week I hope to get the rest of the trim on and quilt the lining.

STILL GOING CHANEL...

Never can remember whether Chanel has one "n" or two - oh well I'm sure you know what I mean.

I'm working on my jacket muslin, and the process is going very well. I'm planning on adding faux welt pocket flaps, but I'm undecided whether to use just two - I could use three or even four, but I want to make sure that I'm not over crowding it. The pocket flaps will have braided trim across them (I still have not purchased the trim yet) and I don't want them to make the jacket look junky.

Vouge 7975 has a two piece sleeve which I usually try to avoid. In addition to the two piece sleeve, I still have to contend with excess sleeve cap ease. I know that ease is a necessary thing, but I cannot stand the puckers that result from it. Several months ago my friend Lisa Howard had told me about using Armo-Rite (found in old ties) cut on the bias to ease sleeves in with the puckers. I tried it and obviously did not know what I was doing because it did not work. I noticed recently that Erica Bunker showed the same technique in a tutorial so I gave it another try. I used regular bias tape (ironed open) as a substitute to ease the sleeves in my jacket muslin.


This time it worked like a charm. So I owe a big "Thank You" to both Lisa and Erica because now I'll satisfied with my sleeves.

Today I'll search my limited source here in town for my trim, and if that fails I turn to the internet. It's time for me to get the show on the road and cut into my fashion fabric.